May 4 - Julington Creek, FL

Julington Creek - Anchorage

We woke up to a perfect day...comfortable temperatures all day and clear blue sky, so different from yesterday. We enjoyed our morning watching people in the park and on the dock in Green Cove Spring. Everyone seemed to be grateful for such an amazing Sunday. Our destination today was Julington Creek, we'd been told about a wonderful fish camp (restaurant) we had to try, called Clark's. Julington Creek is surrounded by beautiful homes with well kept yards and a few marinas. The entry to the creek looks more like a small lake and only narrows into a creek a mile or two up river. We anchored just inside the creek since a 15' bridge would keep us from getting to the fish camp on The Pearl. We had to take the dinghy past the marinas and the bridge to Clark's.

Clark's Fish Camp has been a local's favorite for decades. Originally it was a bait and tackle shop, they expanded to a seafood restaurant about 30 years ago. They have a large, unique menu offering seafood, steak and exotic meats. They maintain a fish camp atmosphere with simple, rustic surroundings. Besides the wonderful food the restaurant draws people in because they house the largest private collection of taxidermy in North America. Every corner of the restaurant is full of animals…everything you can think of is here.

We had a late, and too large, lunch of wonderful shrimp and trout. The servings were so large that we each had enough left over for dinner tonight. We had fun looking at all the animals and the live alligator they have...our granddaughter would love this place. The rest of the day was spent enjoying the beautiful day on the boat and watching the weekend traffic on the river. 

Sunny views of Green Cove Springs

Clark's Fish Camp 

Just a few of the animals we saw at Clark's 

May 3 - Green Cove Springs

Green Cove Springs City Dock

We could choose to sit in the rain in Palatka again today or travel north in the rain and hope to move out of this weather system. We chose to travel, it was misty rain most of the day with temperatures in the mid to upper 50s and a pretty steady breeze...amazing how the weather can change in just a day. 

The MugRace started in Palatka this morning, 70+ sailboats of all sizes were heading to Jacksonville. I'm really glad I wasn't on one of them this morning, they looked very cold, at least we had our flybridge to keep us dry and a little warmer. We'd hoped the weather would clear as we moved north, but it was still wet and grey when we arrived at Green Cove Springs. After we docked we wandered around the pretty waterfront park and checked out a few places we'd read about for dinner. This part of town is beautiful with large homes on the water and a great park and pier so the community can enjoy the spring and river.

The spring, locally known as the “Original Fountain of Youth", attracted guests in the 19th Century; there were more than a dozen hotels near the spring. Today the sulfur-scented spring water feeds an adjacent public swimming pool before flowing the short distance to the St. John’s River.

As other towns we visited along the St. John's, agriculture and tourism were the primary economic ventures until the end of the century, when Henry Flagler's railroad began taking tourists further south into Florida. In 1895, the Great Freeze destroyed the area's citrus crops, and tourism all but ended. Each town has struggled to find its place, but all have done a great job in restoring their historic areas by the river. I don't think many people take the time to do this cruise and even fewer do it slow, taking in the little creeks and spending time just soaking in the sights. The river is an amazing place with beautiful scenery, lots of wildlife, neat little towns and wonderful friendly, helpful locals.

By early evening the clouds had disappeared and the sun was out...yeah! We enjoyed a BBQ dinner at a place called The Brickyard and spent the evening visiting with people on the dock. Life on the river is wonderful.

A few pictures of the sailboats we passed

Spring Park

This is where the spring comes up from the ground and flows into the pool. The depth of the spring is 28 feet, it has a flow of 3000 gallons a minute and is a constant 78º.

May 2 - Palatka, FL

Palatka City Dock

"My life amounts to no more than one drop in a limitless ocean. Yet what is any ocean, but a multitude of drops?"―David Mitchell

The rain the rest of the south has been getting all week finally caught up with us today. We didn't get any severe storms, high winds or hail, but it did rain off and on all day. The rains brought in a cool front, which makes it much nicer on the boat. We spent the day reading, watching videos, surfing the web, playing the guitar (Stan), playing Sudoku (me) and generally being lazy. It was kind of nice to have a slow day.

A large sailboat race leaves from Palatka tomorrow. We were told the waterfront park would get very busy by this afternoon, but the rain put a damper on most of the activities. The Mug Race is the world's longest river race, a challenging one-way course along the beautiful St. John's River to Jacksonville. I'm not sure if it'll go on with the rain or not...I guess we'll have to see what tomorrow brings. We were also told there were around 80 boats registered in this year’s race. It would definitely be fun to see them sailing on our way north tomorrow.

This is the only picture I took today. A Common Tern sitting on the post close to the boat.

May 1 - Palatka, FL

Palatka City Dock

We continued our way down river today, retracing our path from a few weeks ago and trying to soak in anything we might have missed. We kept our eyes open for eagles, alligators and manatees...no gators or manatee, but we did see two eagles today, one flew past us this morning while we had coffee on the deck and another was in a tree above the dock at Corky Bell's where we had lunch.

We had a nice cruise, although a little warm, back to the Palatka area. Our first stop was at Corky Bell's for lunch. We could have spent the night on their dock...which we planned to do, but we found out they were having a bass tournament this evening and we knew that would be more action than we wanted to be part of. So after a good, but too big, lunch we moved to the Palatka city dock. We had another small afternoon shower...this is getting to be a routine, but no large storms.

On our way into the Palatka area we passed a canal that was dug as the eastern section of the Cross Florida Barge Canal. This canal would have connected the Atlantic Ocean with the Gulf of Mexico. In 1964, President Johnson commenced the building of the Cross Florida Barge Canal. The nearly 200-mile long, 30 foot deep canal would dwarf the Panama and Suez canals. The Canal would begin in Jacksonville and travel down the St. John’s River through Palatka, follow the path of the Ocklawaha River to Silver Springs, then cut west below Ocala until it entered the Gulf of Mexico near Yankeetown. The project was estimated to cost upwards of $300 million to build but would have provided a critical link between Mississippi River commerce and the east coast.

Only seven years after its authorization, President Nixon announced he was stopping all work on the canal to prevent further environmental damage to the Ocklawaha River. Less than one third built, the canal remains the largest public works project in American history to be halted in the midst of construction. Two sections of the project were completed before being called off. The area around the barge canal is now a protected green belt corridor, named Marjorie Carr Cross Florida Greenway, after the leader in the fight against the canal construction. 

Corky Bell's Seafood Restaurant 

Looking at the Buckman Lock on what was to be the Cross Florida Barge Canal 

This canal definitely would have changed the looks of Florida and which areas grew. The canal wouldn't have been this straight through the state or this large, but it gives you an idea of what it would have been like. 

April 30 - Welaka, FL

Bryant's Wharf Public Dock

"Life isn't about finding yourself. Life is about creating yourself." ―George Bernard Shaw

When we were in Welaka a few weeks ago a local man told us about several places we should explore. We didn't take time to see those places on our first visit, but we did today. We took the dinghy down and headed north to check out Welaka Spring first. The spring was very small and unimpressive, but the area around it was very pretty. Our next stop was Mud Spring. It’s located in Welaka State Forest, we took our dinghy through Little Lake George and up Mud Creek, but it can also be accessed along a hiking trail. There is a nice picnic area around the spring and the spring forms a pool that you can swim in. Both springs we saw today were very small compared to the other springs we’ve visited.

On the way back to the boat we rode up Bear Creek to the Oklawaha River. Both were beautiful and lush...we felt like we were in a jungle. It looks so jungle like, that filmmakers used an area close by to film Tarzan movies during the 1930s and 40s. Locals have told us there are monkeys in the area, descendants of those that got loose during filming. We were also told today by a couple that they see monkeys around the Mud Spring area regularly...but we didn’t see any today.

We're still waiting on the storms that are moving this way. We've gotten afternoon showers the past few days but then it clears up...nothing like they're getting north of here. This evening we had quite a few visitors on the dock; everyone was interested in the boat and where we'd been. One young lady I was visiting with even gave us a pie...the people in Welaka are very nice.

Welaka Spring

Mud Spring entrance from Mud Creek

Mud Spring

One of the trails around Mud Spring 

Bear Creek

 

A map of the area we explored today.

This little guy was hanging around the boat this evening. He even came closer when I started talking to him.

April 29 - Welaka, FL

Bryant's Wharf Public Dock

“We are all inventors, each sailing out on a voyage of discovery, guided each by a private chart, of which there is no duplicate. The world is all gates, all opportunities.” —Ralph Waldo Emerson

We only had a little rain last night, but the wind never laid down, and we bounced and rocked all night long. After breakfast we were both ready to get off the big boat and go for a ride in the dinghy. The four-mile run up the Salt Springs Creek was a little different than the other creeks we've explored. This creek is wide, has higher banks and is lined in marsh grass and has fewer trees close to the water...definitely different but still pretty. Since it was early and the middle of the week, we had the springs to ourselves…or should I say to myself, since I was the only one that went swimming. The springs and the park are beautiful and I'm sure it's packed here on a warm summer day. The water was refreshing and I had fun looking into the spring vents and watching the fish.

Salt Springs, along with Juniper Springs and Silver Glen Springs are recreation areas in the Ocala National Forest. The waters of Salt Springs rise from vertical cracks from deep within the earth and stay at a constant 74 degrees. The spring gets its name from the presence of potassium, magnesium and sodium salts in the water. The Salt Springs has several spring vents in a large shallow spring pool, which forms the headwater of the 4-mile long Salt Springs Run (Creek). It has been said that Salt Springs is the legendary "Fountain of Youth". Scientists have discovered that certain minerals and trace elements that are available only in unrefined groundwater can slow aging, and the abundance and variety of helpful minerals in the waters at Salt Springs can be found nowhere else in the United States.​ Maybe I'll be looking younger now that I've swum in the "Fountain of Youth"!

There are predictions of thunderstorms and increasing rain chances for the next few days, so after enjoying the park we decided it was time to move the boat out of Lake George. It was a short trip to the city dock in Welaka with little excitement, except for our eagle spotting. This is the first time we've ever seen an eagle on a channel marker...we were eye to eye with this amazing bird. He finally flew off as the main part of the boat passed the marker. It was a once in a lifetime encounter...glad I had my camera ready. We may stay in Welaka a few days again while this weather system passes. There are a few places we'd like to explore around here...hopefully we can do that tomorrow before the rain arrives.

Views of the Salt Springs Creek

Salt Springs Recreation Area

Salt Springs pool

Going for a swim

Underwater view of one of the spring vents

Looking down into one of the spring vents

What an amazing sight...it was like he was posing for us.

April 28 - Lake George, FL

Salt Spring Creek

"If I could have, to hold forever, one brief place and time of beauty, I think I might choose the night on that high lonely bank above the St. Johns River."-Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings

We had two anchorages today. Our first was close to Silver Glen Springs...unfortunately we draw a little too much water to take our large boat into the spring run. This is a popular spot for houseboats and smaller boats to anchor for the weekend. The water is a beautiful, crystalline clear blue that stays a constant 72 degrees. I would have loved to spend a few days anchored in this clear amazing water, swimming right off the boat. Even before we entered the spring run the water in the lake became clear and we could see the aquatic grass, algae and fish on the bottom. We spent the day swimming and doing a little hiking, but mostly we spent it relaxing on the banks of this beautiful spring. Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings had a cabin in the area and it inspired her book “The Yearling”. We hiked the Spring Boils Trail that leads to Jody’s Spring, which was named for the spring described in her book.

Silver Glen Springs is a first-magnitude spring with a large, semicircular pool that measures 200 feet by 175 feet. Sixty five million gallons of water flows from two cavern openings in the rock at the bottom of the pool and flows nearly one mile down the spring run to Lake George. Most of the spring pool has sand and limestone on the pool bottom, with areas of aquatic grasses. Large fresh and saltwater fish are common in the pool and around the vents.  

After we returned to the boat we decided to pull anchor and move closer to Salt Springs, which we'll explore tomorrow. Lake George is a large lake and offers little wind protection. Last night was very calm...making it a bit warmer, but we slept well on a calm ship. This evening the wind has picked up and we have gotten a little rain and we're definitely rocking. I'm sure it'll be more than a gentle roll putting us to sleep tonight.

The view from our picnic table

The water was so clear and blue it looked like we were swimming in a pool...just amazing.

Aww...this is the life!

Looking down to the vents on the bottom of the spring

Most of the spring pool is shallow...until you get close to the vents, then it drops off quickly.

This little island stands guard at the entry to Silver Glen Creek.

April 27 - Lake George, FL

Juniper Creek - Anchorage

"Turn off your mind, relax, and float downstream." ―John Lennon

We woke up to our fourth day of fog...but it lifted quickly and we really didn't have anywhere we needed to be. We did a little research on the springs that flow into Lake George. We knew we could get our dinghy into Silver Glen and Salt Springs, but weren't sure if we could make it up to Juniper Springs. So our mission today was to explore Juniper Creek and hopefully get to swim in the springs. This spring is one of the oldest and best known recreation areas on the East Coast and from the pictures I’ve seen it looks gorgeous. Unfortunately getting to the spring from Lake George proved to be impossible. We had fun exploring the creek, but it soon became too shallow for us to make it in our dinghy. This creek is very popular with airboats, which can slide over the grassy shallow spots...what a racket they make. With all the weekend noise and commotion we only spotted one alligator.

We spent the late afternoon and early evening trying to stay cool...summer arrived in central Florida today. We decided to anchor in Lake George, so we could take advantage of the breeze to keep us a little cooler...by sunset the temperature had dropped and the breeze had picked up a bit, making it much nicer to be at anchor. Tomorrow we'll go to Silver Glen Springs...being a Monday hopefully it won't be as crowded. We never looked forward to Mondays when we were working...since we started cruising we love them.

Our morning view of the St. John's River

A beautiful day on the river...but it was very busy. 

The Pearl anchored in Lake George

Juniper Creek 

A video clip of Juniper Creek

April 26 - Hontoon Island State Park

Park Dock
“Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.” —T.S. Eliot

We began our morning with a visit to the farmers market that is held on 3rd Street. It wasn't large but had a nice variety of things. We picked up some delicious strawberries and a loaf of bread. After lunch we began our return trip to Jacksonville...we are now moving downstream. It was a beautiful Saturday and boats were everywhere enjoying the day. A large part of the river we traveled on this afternoon was posted as low speed (because of manatees) so having so many boats around really wasn't a problem, but with all the activity and noise on the river, the only wildlife we saw today was human.

The weather is beginning to warm up in the afternoons, so we decided to dock at Hontoon Island State Park this evening, so we could have electricity and plug in the AC. The next few days we will be anchoring around Lake George, so we can visit a few more springs. Starting tomorrow night we’ll have to adjust to sleeping in warmer temperatures. We had a nice evening visiting with other boaters on the dock and fixing a wonderful steak dinner. Life on the river is good…at least for now!

Sanford waterfront

Farmers market in Sanford

The main street in the historic district of Sanford

A busy day on the river

The cutest boat we saw today

It was very busy around Blue Spring State Park